Algeria Impression – November 2024

DID YOU KNOW: Algeria is the largest country on the African continent.

The most frequent question I’ve heard regarding this destination is “Why Algeria?
My answer: “Why not?” 

One of my friends (and also one of my past travellers) made this comment on my social media and it encapsulates exactly why I went:
“…Algeria is not a country I would ever have thought of visiting, but your posts have opened my eyes to the possibility of going.”

At Back Track, we are known for off the beaten track destinations, and Algeria could NOT be more off the beaten tourist track so it’s very much on brand for us.

I travelled with the CEO of Crooked Compass and 7 other travel advisors on an educational discovery trip. And it was educational, which is right up my alley and my favourite kind of trip!

I do NOT regret any aspect of my trip at all – it was a fantastic experience.

I am very fortunate to have experienced a tourism frontier destination. Tourism is in its infancy in Algeria and I’m one of a very small number of Australian travellers that will mould future travels and plan future trips for my travellers.
Fun fact: in 2023, 240 Aussies visited Algeria. In 2024 up to Sep, 350 Aussies have visited Algeria.

I did an abbreviated version of this trip. SECRETS OF ALGERIA

Map of Algiers

Algiers

Would I visit Algeria again?

Absolutely! The friendliness and welcoming attitude of the Algerian people is second to none. I don’t think I’ve encountered such a friendly and warm culture as this before. Even more than Fiji!
It was common to be greeted like
Algerian local: “Welcome! Where are you from?”
Me: “Australia”
Algerian local: “Wow that’s a long way. We hope you like it here.”

The level of English proficiency blew me away, especially from older locals (50+ demographic). Algerian students  start learning both French and English in grade 3.

Would I recommend people to visit Algeria?

Yeah, I would. If you’re a history buff, a budding archaeologist and/or a culture vulture, you’ll LOVE IT!
The largest Roman settlement ever built in Africa (Timgad) is located in what is now Algeria. When we went there, it was just our group of 8 plus a handful of Algerian locals. It couldn’t be more different and untouristed to a site like Pompeii which has just introduced a visitor cap of 20,000 souls per day.

The Roman ruins of Djemila – about 40% of the site remains unexcavated.

The Roman Ruins of Timgad – This links to the UNESCO website for further information. About 35% of the Timgad site remains unexcavated. We spoke to the head archaeologist at the site (one of our group is studying archaeology at uni and she was in raptures!)

The Roman Ruins of Timgad

Did I feel unsafe at any point?

No, not at all. I travelled with Crooked Compass and safety is the highest priority. There is a massive amount of risk assessment involved in creating a trip in a frontier destination. I have felt safer in Algeria than in some places in Australia. Also, we did not travel into known areas where safety is harder to guarantee. Going into known iffy areas is a recipe for disaster regardless which country you visit – why would you do that to yourself?

Would I make an effort to learn a little a French before the next visit?

I think so just because I would feel better about myself. It isn’t necessary, but it’d be nice as I wouldn’t feel as lost at times as well. It goes against the grain and does not work well with my thinly veiled need to be in control at all times.

Would I make an effort to learn a little a French before the next visit?

I think so just because I would feel better about myself. It isn’t necessary, but it’d be nice as I wouldn’t feel as lost at times as well. It goes against the grain and does not work well with my thinly veiled need to be in control at all times.

Yes, a thousand times yes!! The attention to detail, care and thought put into designing their trips is outstanding, as well as the stipulation of sharing the benefits of tourism with locals and local communities in the areas we visited. I can’t wait to experience it again in another country! For example, this was a lovely surprise to have lunch in the Beni Abbes desert of Algeria

Lunch in the Beni Abbes desert of Algeria

Would you go at that time of year again, or a different time of year? How come?

I would – the weather was very pleasant the entire time we were away, regardless of the part of the country we were in. It was a little humid and rained ever so slightly while we were on the Mediterranean coast and a very pleasant 22–23 degrees most days. When we ventured into the interior, into the desert the air was much drier and temps were still in the mid 20s.
Since the country has Mediterranean climate, it is best visited during spring time i.e. from November to April, or in the summers. Though the summer is little hot and dry and winters are wet, tourists can visit this country almost all over the year.

First impressions of destination? Sights, smells, people, traffic, customs agents?

Customs/immigration officers are NOT the best impression of a country regardless of which country you go to (I don’t know why this is), though I did find them quite pleasant to deal with and I think as incoming tourists from Australia, they were very patient and polite with us.  As I mentioned above – very few Australians travel to Algeria so we’re still a curiosity rather than a pain point for Algerian immigration. Having said that, we did have to sit in visa purgatory for 3.5hours on arrival – that’s how long it took to process our visa on arrival – it’s a relatively new process that has been in operation for less than a year.  No doubt, the Visa On Arrival (VOA) process will get quicker and more efficient as time and tourist numbers increase. The VOA is only available to tourists visiting selected areas of the country – if you don’t go to any of those areas, you have to apply for a visa through the Embassy 3-4 months before you travel. It takes 2-4 months to get the visa.  Bureaucracy does not move quickly.

The friendliness and welcoming attitude of the Algerian people is second to none. I don’t think I’ve encountered such a friendly and warm culture as this before. Even more than Fiji!
It was common to be greeted like
Algerian local: “Welcome! Where are you from?”
Me: “Australia”
Algerian local: “Wow that’s a long way. We hope you like it here.”

The level of English proficiency blew me away, especially from older locals (50+ demographic). Algerian students start learning both French and English in grade 3.

Did you have any expectations going in?

No, in fact, I had done very little research into Algeria as a destination prior to departing Australia (and I’m not sorry I didn’t). I had googled all the places listed in our itinerary so I knew only vaguely what to expect. If anything I probably expected the country to be undeveloped and rustic which was definitely not the case. The roads in Algeria were in excellent condition – I don’t think I spied a single pothole during my time there.

According to the World Bank: The largest African country and the third-largest Arab economy, Algeria moved back to the upper-middle income category under the World Bank’s country income classification in July 2024. Over the past two decades, Algeria has made advances in economic and human development, investing in infrastructure projects and introducing redistributive social policies that alleviated poverty and significantly improved human development indicators.

It’s not my preferred way to drink coffee, but when in Algeria do as the locals do. I might have to shave my chest later!

Coffee Drink in Algeria

Did it meet / exceed / underdeliver on your expectations?

Exceeded, well and truly. The French influence in the architecture and the leafy green trees on the streets is undeniable. As are the myriad patisseries everywhere. The French influence is especially noticeable in Algiers. There are lots of kitty cats about.

What did you really enjoy?

I really enjoyed visiting UNESCO world heritage sites and being the only people at the site (so very different to Machu Picchu or Pompeii (for example). What a privilege to wander around a 2000 year old Roman ruin with no restrictions whatsoever.  It almost (almost!) felt sacrilegious.

What did you not like so much?

It’s not really a problem as such, but there was so much food! I am not a 3-course for every meal kind of person.

What did you think our travellers would think of the destination / product?

Our Back Track travellers are a well-travelled bunch.  I think most of them would enjoy the “frontier tourism” aspect of a destination that is NOT a tourism mecca.

Is there anything you would change for our travellers based on your experience?

Our trip was on-the-go and deliberately so, so that we could cover as much as possible in our abbreviated trip. I would not forego the rest days – you’ll need them. I walked at least 10kms on 5 of the 12 days (according to Apple’s unparalleled stalking skills).

Pros and cons?

It’s a long way away! Break it up – have a stopover in the middle east or even in Europe!
If you have food allergies, you’ll struggle a little. Food allergies are a Western phenomenon. We had a vegetarian in the group, and, believe it or not, it was difficult at times to obtain completely Vegetarian fare.  I suspect if you have a gluten-free or coeliac dietary requirement, it’ll be a tough.
Other than that, I can’t think of too many cons.
There is a lot of marble in buildings and on the ground which can be slippery when it rains. We had a little rain while we were there which definitely required you to watch your footing in some places (especially old sites like the Casbah of Algiers and Djemila).

What tips would you pass on?

Cash rather than credit card. Don’t change money at the airport, get your guide to do it, you’ll get a better rate.
Try to learn some French or Arabic phrases and words before you go.
Toilets are a mix of western and hole in the ground.

How much luggage did you take? Was it suitable? Is there anything you wish you’d taken with you? Or left behind?

Yet again – I forgot my universal adaptor!  I think I must have 4 of them hiding around my house now!

11.kgs of baggage. I think this is as close to nailing baggage as I’ve ever been. 
I think I’m a pretty good packer now (it has taken time to develop a proficient packing ability.) We did get advised to bring a light rain jacket which I completely forgot. It did rain lightly a couple of times and there was a cheeky breeze quite a few days while we were away.

For those travellers with iffy knees or iffy balance, some collapsable walking poles would be good for you.

For the first time in my travelling life, my baggage was left behind on our way from Algiers to Bechar (the desert), and it was the one time, I did not put spare underwear and a shirt in my hand luggage. Guess who had to do some quick washing before she went to bed that night!

 

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